COLOMBIA, Caquetá
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COLOMBIA, Caquetá
by Jan Brelih
PUBLISHED JUNE. 18, 2022 | CAQUETÁ, COLOMBIA
Baha Solano is a remote town in Colombia’s Choco region, practically completely isolated from the rest of the country. Here you can find a stunning coastline, Afro-Colombian locals, lush jungles, countless waterfalls, and Utria National Park. The easiest way to get there is by plane, but for the more adventurous, there is a cargo boat that leaves from the coastal city of Buenaventura. This is my experience of taking a cargo boat journey across the Pacific Ocean, with some practical information included for anyone who would like to follow the same idea. As I discovered, the region is generally safe to visit.
I took a small bus from Cali to Buenaventura with a company called Corredor del Pacífico (Rome2Rio). The office is located on the upper floor of the Cali main bus station. The bus journey took around 4 hours, passing through picturesque scenery. When arriving in Buenaventura, I discovered how large the city is. The majority of the residences were in slum areas, but the bus ended its journey at the city’s official station. A bridge connects the island to the rest of the city. With the presence of hotels, businesses, a port, banks, and even a subway sandwich store, the area appeared to be safe. I’ll soon discover the true level of safety here.
Buenaventura city in Choco region known for the armed gang violance and drug smuggling. On the very West of the city there is a pretty good infrstructure with a good safety conditions.
I arrived two days before the boat’s scheduled departure time to confirm that everything was in place and that I had the ticket. My biggest challenge was not knowing the language, and nobody spoke English here. So, now that I had some free time, I decided to go explore this part of town. Despite my initial concerns and the negative reviews I’d read about Buenaventura online, I was pleasantly surprised. After a day, I realised it’s not just a reasonably safe place for a tourist but also a somehow pleasant one. I frequently walked through the streets by myself, even late at night.
Now I needed to contact the boat captain and try to find out the exact date, time, and location. When I contacted them for any information about the boat, an eco-lodge from El Valle (Bahia Solano) gave me a phone number. I had the number but didn’t speak Spanish, so I added it to Whatsapp and sent a message using Google Translate. Soon, I got a reply in a voice message, which I used with a Google Translate speech translation function. The boat was supposed to leave on Monday. I was still missing the location, so after a few more messages with the boat owner, Oscar, I had some information to work with. I cycled from the hotel across the Puente Del Piñal bridge, and after some time, I finally found the place of a boat harbour.
The cargo boat was leaving on Monday around 11 a.m. I woke up early in my hotel, packed all my stuff, went for a good coffee, and cycled about two kilometres over the bridge to the “Bodega Renacer,” where the boat was waiting. Once there, I needed to go up the stairs to the office, where I showed my passport and paid 200.000 COP. The owner, Oscar, charged me another 50.000 COP for the bicycle.
After paying, I got my ticket and a wristband. I’m thrilled that everything worked out and that I’ll be going to the wild Colombian Pacific! However, I had to wait for another five hours while they loaded various types of cargo onto the boat. Eventually, they took my bicycle and pushed it via a little wooden plant into the boat, where it joined the rest of the cargo. It was time to get aboard!
After leaving, the boat came to a halt half a kilometre later at another port. According to claims, the captain was required to register with the port authorities in order for them to approve our cruise. We waited on the boat for another 2 hours as the Colombian military drove around with small boats, going up and down and checking the area.
Finally, we have started our 24-hour journey, slowly getting out of the huge mangrove swamp bay towards the open ocean while passing the main port of Buenaventura. I proceeded to locate a passenger-only bunk bed. They are relatively small and can be difficult to access if you are sleeping on the top bunk, but overall, they meet the standard requirements. Do not forget, we are on a big adventure! So far, life has been good. I was enjoying my time on a boat, seeing the ocean and now distant land covered by jungle. I even enjoyed a beer and lunch that the boat chef had prepared for me. Your ticket includes a bunk bed, three meals, and some drinks.
Now, we were venturing further out into the ocean, a considerable distance from the land. I thought the boat would follow the coast pretty closely. That gave me a sense of better safety because if something happened and we started to sink, I could just swim to the shore. Well, that is not the case now.
After two hours of a pretty relaxing boat sail, the lovely sunset was approaching, and it felt good to be here on this big Pacific Ocean. I sat on the front bench, looking out into the horizon and relishing the moment. The increasingly erratic waves soon disturbed my serenity. I felt seasick for the first time in my life. I thought I could control my stomach, but the small boat has turned into a roller coaster. It didn’t take long for my body to excel at digesting the previously consumed food. It was now pitch black, the waves continued to rock the boat, and I was experiencing nausea and dizziness. Feeling this way here is really risky, since you may fall over the low boat fence into the ocean and no one will notice. Following that, I climbed onto my bed and laid down, feeling a little better. I truly slept well and felt much better after falling asleep.
My sleep was good until about 4 a.m., when some people started to have a loud conversation in the sleeping area. It was really terrible, and I could not believe how these people can lack the basic awareness of others. The debate and ensuing shouting continued for hours. I got out of bed and went outside to sleep on a wooden bench under the starry sky. It was actually rather nice and finally peaceful, with only the soothing sounds of the ocean. I awoke in the morning just to experience this view.
This breathtaking sight greeted me after 24 hours. We’re almost there! Hundreds of kilometres of unspoiled jungle and coastline. At this point, I knew it was the right decision to come here. I unloaded my bicycle from the boat and cycled for the first time on the Pacific region’s grounds. Soon, I came across a waterfall coming from the mountains, parked my bike, and jumped straight into the fresh water. After stopping at a local restaurant near the airport, I cycled 18 km on the only road existing here to the town of El Valle. Most of the tourism happens here, with the nicest beaches and infrastructure. There were actually much more tourists and foreign backpackers there than I imagined. The area, especially for tourists, is pretty safe. El Valle’s locals are friendly, and there’s no need to worry about street robberies or similar incidents. It is a truly off-the-beaten-path destination. A hidden paradise.
I took the boat back to Buenaventura after spending two months on the Pacific coast. It was far more enjoyable and relaxing than the journey there. The ocean was calm the entire trip, and the weather was great. There were fewer passengers, and the meal prepared by the boat chef was delicious. It felt funny to be back in “civilisation.”
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This sounds really great! I hope one day it will be me doing this trip!
Hi, thanks for the article! I’m considering going there with my little family and use the boat. There are other boats and even speed boats? Do you know how to reach them online?
Best regards
Hi, yes there are other cargo boats and also speed boats. You can’t really reach them online, only via WhatsApp numbers which I don’t currently have any of. All the best with your trip!
Tks. U Made me remember abt 4 yrs ago. When i did myself same marvelous trip ever think the same boat..glad bcs.u do not use. Nad press in ir kind comment, congrats!